Before I go back to my very pleasant, if somewhat wet, walk in the forest I should take some time to discuss the weather. It's been raining here in Poland for over a week now, with the worst affected area being right where I am...60mm rain just yesterday. I can tell by the levels of water in the stream by the hostel that things are getting bad, and on the news they have serious faced reporters standing next to swollen rivers, talking earnestly about the weather and mentioning places like Zakopane (which is where I am) and Krakow (the nearest city, where there were serious floods earlier this year, through which I have to travel on Saturday). They are showing maps of the watershed, with all the rivers leading into the main regional one running through Krakow...BUT I can't understand more than one word in one hundred so I don't know what they are saying...it's very confusing, and more than a little alarming!
While we are on the news, the other thing I've been seeing a lot of on the TV is "Solidarity" the trade union whose strikes eventually led to the downfall of the Communist state in Poland, and whose leader, Lech Walensa became one of independent Poland's first premiers. Gdansk (where I will be in less than two weeks) has just been hosting big National celebrations...it's 30 years since the strikes! I never realisised how long ago it was, I can remember clearly visiting Polish friends of my family and seeing a little shrine with photos of the Polish Pope (Jan Pawel they call him here) and Lech Walensa on either side. So, that's another thing to do when I get there...they're doing "Soldarity tours" round the old ship yards.
Back to the here and now (well two days ago really, I've stayed in after being soaked through to the skin yesterday morning....with my waterproofs on) and my walk in the Tatra National Park. It was only a short walk, about one hour altogether, but beautiful.
I walked alongside a small stream, under tall pines with occasional birch and rowan trees. It smelled wonderful, damp peaty soil, wet leaves and slight sweetness that tells you there are fungi nearby. Although all the birds and animals had taken cover from the persistant rain there was plenty of evidence of their presence. Pine cones had been gnawed away, and trees had large woodpecker holes bored into them. I found fungi....
I found flowers....
and I found food!
The first living creatures I saw were swallows at a ford in the stream, doing their insect skimming act, but they were beaten hands (or should that be wings) down by a small, plain looking wagtail who performed the most amazing aerial acrobatic stunts I have ever seen. Somersaults, backwards flying, sudden changes of direction, and by then I'd put away my camera because it was just getting too wet!
After that I retreated to town where I enjoyed myself finding the most expensive the most expensive foods on the menus (but not buying them) Locally hunted venison came in at the top, with locally hunted Wild Boar second. It's very clear though that the poles are used to hard weather by what's on sale, even as souveniers. Knitted goods, socks sweaters, hats and mittens are popular, so is anything sheepskin...waistcoats, slippers, blankets. Shops selling walking boots and wet weather gear are very popular as well. It's also noticable that nearly all the restaurants and cafes that can have open fireplaces...with a roaring fire, and Tea or Coffee with rum is on offer. An interesting thing here, the Poles appear to drink more tea (Herbata) than Coffee (Kawa). It's drunk black, sometimes with lemon, and in a tall glass not a cup. The only cups I've seen are for coffee, which comes small and black.
One thing you can't get away from, even in a small town like this, are the obvious tell tales of Globalisation Kentucky Fried Chicken, McDonalds and Costa Coffee all have large outlets on town, many of the banks are multinationals, and of course there are brand names everywhere..Nike, Levis ......but their facilities for the disabled are almost non-existant, or at best tokenistic (is that a word? ....it is now!)
I'm hoping that the weather forecasts are right and that there will be slightly better weather for my last two days here (slightly less rain....intermittant perhaps, if not full sunshine) I'd like to get out and see some more of the region......if I do, you'll be the first to know.
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